Tag Archives: place-names

Valleys of Hope

Here we take a hope-filled look at an example of toponymic nomenclature in the North East of England. That’s a very fancy and ‘make me sound clever’ way of describing a system of geographical names in a particular locality.

Hope-Valleys-Map-Place-Names-Northumberland-Durham-Scotland.jpg
Valleys termed ‘hopes’ in Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders © David Simpson, Tangled Worm (click to view larger).

One thing that often strikes me about topographical names in North East England is how distinct they are within England and how often they share features with lowland Scotland and particularly the Scottish Borders. There are several examples of identical or similar terminologies that transcend the border and hopefully we will look at some more of these in future posts. ‘Hopeful’ is a good word because it is always good to start with some hope and this post is certainly filled with ‘hopes’.

Harthope Burn near Wooler
Harthope Burn near Wooler. Photo © David Simpson

As an element of place-names in Britain, ‘hope’ comes from an Old English (Anglo-Saxon) term ‘Hop’ for a valley and is a term that survives predominantly in the uplands of Northumberland, County Durham and the border counties of Scotland. In Scotland they are especially prominent within the catchment area of the River Tweed and disappear gradually in Dumfriesshire. Further north where the Tweed meets the catchment of the River Clyde, the hopes disappear instantly. In Scotland ‘hopes’ seem to be associated with a region that formed part of Anglian Northumbria until the early eleventh century.

In these regions of hope (Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders) ‘hope’ usually indicates a small ravine hosting a tributary ‘side valley’ which adjoins a larger dale or valley. The term ‘hope’ is also often applied to the grazing land within these side valleys and interestingly we may find hopes named Winterhope and Summerhope, presumably associated with movements of livestock.

Middleton-in-Teesdale showing Middleton Bridge across the Tees which dates from 1810
Middleton-in-Teesdale © David Simpson

The name of each Hope is usually assigned to the name of a stream that is almost always termed a ‘burn’ within the region. At the southern extremity of this region of hopes is Teesdale, at the edge of County Durham. Here we find Great Eggleshope; Little Eggleshope and Hudeshope near Middleton-in-Teesdale, that are exceptions to the ‘hope-burn’ rule, as these three valleys are formed by streams called ‘becks’ rather than burns. South of the River Tees into Yorkshire, where the Viking term ‘beck’ takes over from the Old English term ‘burn’, the word ‘hope’ disappears altogether as a term for a valley.

In addition to the simple map you see above we have created a more detailed Google Earth map highlighting valleys called ‘hopes’ in Britain with each of the hopes identified, labelled and precisely pinpointed. To explore this map visit the short link at ‘Hope as a term for valley’ (Google Earth map)

Screenshot Google Earth Map of 'hope valleys'
Screenshot of Google Earth Map showing valleys termed hopes

We extracted the data for this Google Earth map from the Gazetteer of British Place Names at gazetteer.org.uk and our map of hopes is based on this data. The Gazetteer of British Place Names data is a fantastic open source resource and is very extensive and detailed (with more than a quarter of a million entries) but is not perfect.

Killhope Weardale
The Killhope Burn, Weardale © David Simpson 2018

I have filtered the data to only include features including the term ‘hope’ that are specifically categorised in the data as ‘valleys’ and I note it has missed some valleys, including the beautiful valley of the Hedleyhope Burn just west of Durham City. Another missing hope valley is the famous hope Killhope Burn in Weardale. Killhope and Hedleyhope are listed in the data as places but not as valleys. Another interesting omission is Sweethope Lough in Northumberland as that is of course categorised as a lake.

Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery
Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery © David Simpson

Interestingly, a small handful of outlying valleys identified in the data on this map are in Derbyshire and the Welsh border counties of England. There are four valleys listed  in these particular areas with ‘hope’ in their names, two of which are called Hope Valley and two are called Hope Dale. It is interesting that the additional clarification of ‘valley’ and ‘dale’ have been added to the word ‘Hope’ suggesting that the original meaning of ‘hope’ was long forgotten in these regions. Hope Bottom in Sussex is another extreme outlier on the map. Both ‘bottom’ and ‘hope’ in this name are believed to refer to the valley of the chalk stream here.

We should note that there are handfuls of place-names containing the element ‘hope’ as an artefact. A small number of examples can be found in the counties bordering Wales. They include the village of Fownhope in Herefordshire and nearby Woolhope but the term ‘hope’ has not generally survived in that region as a term for a valley.

Cassop Vale from Old Cassop
Cassop Vale viewed from Old Cassop. Photo © David Simpson 2016

Some places may contain the word ‘hope’ in disguise through modification of spelling. A good example of this is Old Cassop near Durham City named from the beautiful Cassop Vale, which means ‘valley of the wild cat’ where hope has been shortened to ‘op’. Other clipped forms of ‘hope’ occur in the names of Glossop in Derbyshire and Bacup in Lancashire

The village of Staindrop near Raby Castle in County Durham is also described by place-name experts as a hope (stoney-hope) from a modification of the word ‘hope’. Interestingly, Staindrop which is situated in a valley called Langleydale, has also sometimes been  historically interpreted as ‘Stainthorpe’. The present form ‘Staindrop’ has a remarkable similarity to several places in Denmark called Stenderup (stone village). In England, the Danish element ‘derup’ meaning farm or ‘village’ occurs as ‘thorpe’ in Viking settled areas and it is perhaps worth noting that Staindrop and Raby have a strong association with the famed eleventh century Danish king of England, Cnut, who owned the land there.

The prominent rocky hills of Great Standrop and Little Standrop in the Cheviots in Northumberland, incidentally have a very different origin to Staindrop in County Durham. Here Standrop literally refers to the ‘drop’ of the cliffs but we have strayed a little way from the subject of ‘hope’. Not far from the Standrop hills is Hedgehope Hill, the second highest hill in the Cheviot range after The Cheviot itself. Hedgehope is one of a number of hills that adopt the word hope from neighbouring valleys and the stunning Harthope Valley borders this hill.

As mentioned, only valleys containing the word ‘hope’ have been included on our Google Earth map. The map does not include the names of villages, towns, hills, woodlands, forests or other features that might include the word ‘hope’ although these features often derive from the term ‘hope’ meaning valley and are much more widespread in England, well beyond Northumberland and Durham.

Some of the ‘hope’ names on this Google Earth map may also include an additional term for a valley such as ‘Dean’ (or dene) which is usually a wooded valley we might also find hope used in conjunction with the Northumbrian word ‘cleugh’ or Scots word ‘cleuch’. These are from a word meaning ‘ravine’ that usually occurs as ‘clough’ in other parts of northern England. We may take a look at this element in a future post.

Bend in the border. The part of the Liddel Water you can see in the foreground bottom right follows the Scotland-England border which then turns up the Kershopeburn which you can see entering the river here
The Kershopeburn centre joining the Liddel Water in Liddesdale, Scotland. The Kershope Burn and Liddel Water both form part of the England-Scotland border © David Simpson

Sundered Land, New Castle, Goat’s Head : What’s in a North East Place Name?

North East place-names and their origins. DAVID SIMPSON explores the sometimes surprising meanings of place-names in the North East region.

Wearmouth Bridge
Wearmouth Bridge, Sunderland © David Simpson.

Did you know that Sunderland was the sundered or separated land; Newcastle was simply a ‘New’ Castle and Gateshead was, quite strangely, the ‘head of the she-goat’? We take place-names for granted but all have an origin and meaning that is often long forgotten or sometimes lost in time. No one actually knows how London got its name, for example.

I’ve always been fascinated by place-name origins. It’s an unusual hobby perhaps, though I find it rather strange that few people share my curiosity for such everyday features of our world. Peculiar place-names like Pity Me arouse much interest – and are often rather plainly explained as ‘poor farmland’ although there’s a wealth of more popular if rather dubious theories. In truth I think that everyday names can be just as interesting.

Viking place-names

Some place-names give clues to the origins of the early settlers who founded the place. For example in the south of our region around Middlesbrough there are many place-names ending in the element ‘by’: Thornaby, Ormesby, Tollesby, Normanby, Danby, Lackenby, Lazenby, Maltby and so on. These ‘by’ names are all Viking – and usually Danish in origin, although Normanby points to Norwegian ‘northmen’.

Such Viking names are numerous just south of the Tees in the once intensively Viking settled area of North Yorkshire. Interestingly, they are quite rare north of the Tees – Aislaby near Yarm and Raby (Castle) near Darlington are exceptions that are not that far to the north of the river.

Transporter Bridge from Port Clarence looking towards Middlesbrough
The Transporter Bridge, Middlesbrough. Viking place-names are numerous in the Middlesbrough area © David Simpson

These ‘by’ ending names can also be found in Viking settled Cumbria particularly along the Eden valley all the way up towards Carlisle and there are a fair few in the Merseyside area in the North West of England associated with Viking immigration from the Viking colony of Dublin.

In Old Danish a ‘by’ was a Viking farm or village and even today a quick scan of a map of Denmark and you’ll find dozens and dozens of little villages with names like Norby, Kaerby, Staby, Balleby, Foldby, Karlby, Draby, Voldby, Rakkeby and Mejby. Many of these wouldn’t seem at all out of place in North Yorkshire.

Anglo-Saxon place-names

Most place-names in England, including the North East of England are usually of Anglo-Saxon origin. The Angles and Saxons were a Germanic people closely related to the later Vikings. The original Anglo-Saxon coastal homelands stretched from Frisia and the Netherlands up to the present day border of Germany and Denmark.

The Angles, for example, who gave their name to England (the Angle Land) settled extensively in Northumbria and originated from Angeln near the border of those two countries and settled in our islands as invading warriors some three centuries before the Vikings arrived on our shores.

Just about anything ending in ‘ton’ or ‘ham’ is Anglo-Saxon including most of those ‘ingtons’ and ‘inghams: Darlington, Bedlington, Billingham, Bellingham and so on. A ‘ham’ was a homestead and a ‘ton’ an enclosed settlement. Ton or ‘tun’ to give the old spelling was, incidentally originally pronounced ‘toon’ and is at the root of our modern word ‘town’. Sound familiar?

Nathaniel Buck's view of Newcastle 1745
Newcastle – an historic view of the ‘toon’ or should that be ‘tun’? Pictured in 1745..

I’m really into place-names for fun but with a quest for true knowledge about the place-names as part of our region’s history. I’m an amateur enthusiast when it comes to place-names to be honest. It is in fact a serious scholarly study and often a complicated one at that.

You can’t simply look at a place-name and guess what it might mean. You have to go back to the earliest known recorded spelling from perhaps a thousand years ago or more and work back from there.

Most place-name experts are skilled linguists with knowledge of several languages that are no longer spoken today like Old English (the language of the Anglo-Saxons), or the Old Norse of the Vikings as well as old Celtic languages like Brythonic and Old Welsh. The experts will have knowledge of how these languages evolved and changed over time and in the case of Old English and Old Norse, how they fused together along with the later Norman French to form the basis of the English language as we know it today.

A good knowledge of local dialect, local history and local topography is also very useful to the scholar of place-names. In fact its essential right down to a knowledge of local soil types, quality of drainage (at that time) and the suitability of land for early farming and settlement.

Newcastle, Sunderland, Middlesbrough

So, what about familiar names like Sunderland, Newcastle and Gateshead? Well the ‘separateness’ of Sunderland dates to Anglo-Saxon times and refers to land detached or ‘sundered’ from an estate by the King of Northumbria for the use of the Wearmouth monastery.

The ‘New’ Castle of Newcastle dates to Norman times, the first castle being built by William the Conqueror’s eldest son Robert Curthose in 1080 on the site of a Roman fort. At that time the long-since ruined and redundant Roman fort and its associated surviving settlement was called Monkchester, and although this might be considered the ‘old castle’, it seems the rebuilding of the Norman castle by Henry II in the twelfth century was the origin of the true ‘New Castle’.

Church of St Mary, Gateshead and Tyne Bridge
Gateshead – ‘Head of the She Goat’  © David Simpson

Just as intriguing, Gateshead across the Tyne lies at the head of the road or ‘way’ dating back to Roman times and perhaps earlier. Roads were sometimes called ‘gates’ in times past but this term was more commonly used for old streets in historic towns. ‘Head of the gate’ seems a plausible explanation for Gateshead, however, the Venerable Bede, writing in the seventh century describes Gateshead in Latin as ‘Ad Caprae Caput’ – meaning ‘the head of the she goat’ so perhaps there was some form of totem or symbol of a goat’s head overlooking the ancient bridge across the Tyne.

More North East place-names explained

Ashington: ‘Ing’ usually means a kinship or tribal group and ‘ton’ usually means an enclosed settlement. On the surface Ashington looks like ‘the place belonging to the people of a person called Ash’ or something similar. However the earliest spelling in old records is ‘Aescen-denu’ and this is an Anglo-Saxon place-name that means ‘valley (a dene or ‘denu’) overgrown with ash trees’. It shows how important it is to find the oldest spellings.

Bamburgh: From Bebba’s Burgh, a burgh or fortified place named from a Northumbrian queen called Bebba who was the wife of King Æthelfrith. Before Æthelfrith’s time it was known by the Celtic name Din Guayroi.

Beautiful Bamburgh.
Beautiful Bamburgh © David Simpson

Bishop Auckland: A complicated one this. The old name was Alcuith – a Celtic name referring to a river. Later it became the home of a castle and palace belonging to the Bishops of Durham hence the ‘Bishop’ part of the name. The old name came to be changed to Auckland (perhaps because it was thought to mean ‘oakland’).

Chester-le-Street: Places containing the word ‘Chester’ are usually Anglo-Saxon in origin even though they refer to the earlier site of a Roman fort. ‘Street’ usually refers to a Roman road. ‘Le’ was added by the Normans as part of a suffix to distinguish places with similar names ‘Le-Street’ distinguishes it from other places called Chester. Other ‘le’ places that would otherwise have potentially confusing similar names are Houghton-le-Spring, Houghton-le-Side, Haughton-le-Skerne, Hetton-le-Hill, Hetton-le-Hole and in North Yorkshire we have Hutton-le-Hole.

Darlington : Originally something like Deornoth’s People’s enclosure. You’d never guess this unless you see the early spellings.

Durham : Originally Dun Holm, ‘the hill island’. In Norman French it was Duresme and in Latin it was Dunelm.

Hartlepool : Means ‘Stag Island Pool’. Le-Pool was added by the Normans to distinguish it from the nearby village of Hart. Unlike other ‘le’ place-names it doesn’t use hyphens but it could easily have been called Hart-le-Pool.

Middlesbrough: Means middle manor or perhaps middle fortified place. One theory is that it is named from its middle location between the historic Christian centres of Whitby and Durham.

Stanhope: Means ‘stony side valley’. Hope meaning land in a ‘side valley’ is a common element in North East place-names, especially in the hilly country of the west.

Warkworth: Wark comes from ‘weorc’ – an earthwork or castle and ‘worth’ means an enclosed settlement. The villages of Wark on Tyne and Wark on Tweed were both sites for castles built on earthworks.

 

Whisht! lads ‘ I’ll tell ye aboot the Tangled Worm

County Durham-based Tangled Worm is a new  North East based business publishing poster prints with a bit of difference with an emphasis on Northern heritage,  fun facts and just a little frivolity.

Worm legends poster
Worm legends poster print

“We specialise in colourful poster prints with an emphasis on information, quirky facts and northern history as well as occasionally delve into other educational themes like science” says owner David Simpson, 50.

David Simpson
David Simpson

Based near Durham City Tangled Worm was set up in November  by David, a former writer with The Northern Echo best known as the author of a number of books about the North East.

“I want to produce prints that are colourful, fun and informative” says David  “and I’m especially keen to focus on Britain and particularly the North of England but also want to produce prints that are just for fun”.

A colourful print featuring 150 jokey 'batty book titles'
A colourful print featuring 150 jokey ‘batty book titles’

One of David’s most popular prints is a map featuring over 1,000 rude and curious place-names in North East England which includes such wonders as Common Slap, Old Man’s Bottom, Comical Corner, Goodwife Hot, Make Me Rich, Crackpot and Stinking Goat. It also includes explanations for some of the more familiar unusual names like Pity me and Unthank as well as a wide range of place-names with an international flavour like Moscow, California, Boc Chica, Philadephia and Toronto that pop up throughout  the region.

Curious place-names of North East England
Curious place-names of North East England

Northern history themed maps include the troublesome Border reiver surnames: Robson, Charlton, Milburn, Elliot, Armstrong and many others whose murderous raiding and livestock rustling culture dominated Northumberland and neighbouring border counties in Tudor times. The map includes a few tales associated with some of the most notorious reiving families.

Representing a more distant period is a map showing the Iron Age tribes of the North and the routes and events of the subsequent Roman invasion. Another map features the principal Roman features of the North and two very detailed poster print maps depict the Kingdom of Northumbria in the Viking age and in the pre-Viking era complete with details of raids, invasions, murders, settlements and lists of the all the Kings and Earls based at Bamburgh and York.

The Iron Age North
The Iron Age North

It’s not just about history though, Northern culture is well represented. Products include a Geordie Dictionary poster featuring explanations and origins for over 500 North East words and a unique map showing the names of 1,400 notable northerners ranging from scientists, celebrities, singers, comedians, inventors and notable industrialists from Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds and Hull in the south all the way up to Berwick. All the northern counties from Cheshire, Lancashire and Yorkshire up to Northumberland are featured.

There’s even a map depicting the North East ‘worm’ legends which provided the inspiration for the business name.  In case you’re wondering, worms are wyverns, legendary serpents that feature in ancient stories that are entwined and entangled with the mythology of invading Vikings, Angles and Saxons.

David says he loves unravelling such tales and history in general to reveal strange roots and sees the world as a place of entangled mysteries and puzzles waiting to be solved, untwisted and enjoyed with wonder. This goes for science too – his colourful Periodic table is one of his latest additions which explains how the elements combine in ways to make up our universe.

Periodic Table
Periodic Table

“In the same way as the knights of old defeated the by slicing up those worms I like to break up knowledge into morsels for entertainment and enlightenment. It hopefully whets the appetite to learn much more.”

Visit Tangled Worm Poster Prints at

https://tangledworm.com

Tangled Worm