Tag Archives: Durham

Valleys of Hope

Here we take a hope-filled look at an example of toponymic nomenclature in the North East of England. That’s a very fancy and ‘make me sound clever’ way of describing a system of geographical names in a particular locality.

Hope-Valleys-Map-Place-Names-Northumberland-Durham-Scotland.jpg
Valleys termed ‘hopes’ in Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders © David Simpson, Tangled Worm (click to view larger).

One thing that often strikes me about topographical names in North East England is how distinct they are within England and how often they share features with lowland Scotland and particularly the Scottish Borders. There are several examples of identical or similar terminologies that transcend the border and hopefully we will look at some more of these in future posts. ‘Hopeful’ is a good word because it is always good to start with some hope and this post is certainly filled with ‘hopes’.

Harthope Burn near Wooler
Harthope Burn near Wooler. Photo © David Simpson

As an element of place-names in Britain, ‘hope’ comes from an Old English (Anglo-Saxon) term ‘Hop’ for a valley and is a term that survives predominantly in the uplands of Northumberland, County Durham and the border counties of Scotland. In Scotland they are especially prominent within the catchment area of the River Tweed and disappear gradually in Dumfriesshire. Further north where the Tweed meets the catchment of the River Clyde, the hopes disappear instantly. In Scotland ‘hopes’ seem to be associated with a region that formed part of Anglian Northumbria until the early eleventh century.

In these regions of hope (Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders) ‘hope’ usually indicates a small ravine hosting a tributary ‘side valley’ which adjoins a larger dale or valley. The term ‘hope’ is also often applied to the grazing land within these side valleys and interestingly we may find hopes named Winterhope and Summerhope, presumably associated with movements of livestock.

Middleton-in-Teesdale showing Middleton Bridge across the Tees which dates from 1810
Middleton-in-Teesdale © David Simpson

The name of each Hope is usually assigned to the name of a stream that is almost always termed a ‘burn’ within the region. At the southern extremity of this region of hopes is Teesdale, at the edge of County Durham. Here we find Great Eggleshope; Little Eggleshope and Hudeshope near Middleton-in-Teesdale, that are exceptions to the ‘hope-burn’ rule, as these three valleys are formed by streams called ‘becks’ rather than burns. South of the River Tees into Yorkshire, where the Viking term ‘beck’ takes over from the Old English term ‘burn’, the word ‘hope’ disappears altogether as a term for a valley.

In addition to the simple map you see above we have created a more detailed Google Earth map highlighting valleys called ‘hopes’ in Britain with each of the hopes identified, labelled and precisely pinpointed. To explore this map visit the short link at ‘Hope as a term for valley’ (Google Earth map)

Screenshot Google Earth Map of 'hope valleys'
Screenshot of Google Earth Map showing valleys termed hopes

We extracted the data for this Google Earth map from the Gazetteer of British Place Names at gazetteer.org.uk and our map of hopes is based on this data. The Gazetteer of British Place Names data is a fantastic open source resource and is very extensive and detailed (with more than a quarter of a million entries) but is not perfect.

Killhope Weardale
The Killhope Burn, Weardale © David Simpson 2018

I have filtered the data to only include features including the term ‘hope’ that are specifically categorised in the data as ‘valleys’ and I note it has missed some valleys, including the beautiful valley of the Hedleyhope Burn just west of Durham City. Another missing hope valley is the famous hope Killhope Burn in Weardale. Killhope and Hedleyhope are listed in the data as places but not as valleys. Another interesting omission is Sweethope Lough in Northumberland as that is of course categorised as a lake.

Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery
Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery © David Simpson

Interestingly, a small handful of outlying valleys identified in the data on this map are in Derbyshire and the Welsh border counties of England. There are four valleys listed  in these particular areas with ‘hope’ in their names, two of which are called Hope Valley and two are called Hope Dale. It is interesting that the additional clarification of ‘valley’ and ‘dale’ have been added to the word ‘Hope’ suggesting that the original meaning of ‘hope’ was long forgotten in these regions. Hope Bottom in Sussex is another extreme outlier on the map. Both ‘bottom’ and ‘hope’ in this name are believed to refer to the valley of the chalk stream here.

We should note that there are handfuls of place-names containing the element ‘hope’ as an artefact. A small number of examples can be found in the counties bordering Wales. They include the village of Fownhope in Herefordshire and nearby Woolhope but the term ‘hope’ has not generally survived in that region as a term for a valley.

Cassop Vale from Old Cassop
Cassop Vale viewed from Old Cassop. Photo © David Simpson 2016

Some places may contain the word ‘hope’ in disguise through modification of spelling. A good example of this is Old Cassop near Durham City named from the beautiful Cassop Vale, which means ‘valley of the wild cat’ where hope has been shortened to ‘op’. Other clipped forms of ‘hope’ occur in the names of Glossop in Derbyshire and Bacup in Lancashire

The village of Staindrop near Raby Castle in County Durham is also described by place-name experts as a hope (stoney-hope) from a modification of the word ‘hope’. Interestingly, Staindrop which is situated in a valley called Langleydale, has also sometimes been  historically interpreted as ‘Stainthorpe’. The present form ‘Staindrop’ has a remarkable similarity to several places in Denmark called Stenderup (stone village). In England, the Danish element ‘derup’ meaning farm or ‘village’ occurs as ‘thorpe’ in Viking settled areas and it is perhaps worth noting that Staindrop and Raby have a strong association with the famed eleventh century Danish king of England, Cnut, who owned the land there.

The prominent rocky hills of Great Standrop and Little Standrop in the Cheviots in Northumberland, incidentally have a very different origin to Staindrop in County Durham. Here Standrop literally refers to the ‘drop’ of the cliffs but we have strayed a little way from the subject of ‘hope’. Not far from the Standrop hills is Hedgehope Hill, the second highest hill in the Cheviot range after The Cheviot itself. Hedgehope is one of a number of hills that adopt the word hope from neighbouring valleys and the stunning Harthope Valley borders this hill.

As mentioned, only valleys containing the word ‘hope’ have been included on our Google Earth map. The map does not include the names of villages, towns, hills, woodlands, forests or other features that might include the word ‘hope’ although these features often derive from the term ‘hope’ meaning valley and are much more widespread in England, well beyond Northumberland and Durham.

Some of the ‘hope’ names on this Google Earth map may also include an additional term for a valley such as ‘Dean’ (or dene) which is usually a wooded valley we might also find hope used in conjunction with the Northumbrian word ‘cleugh’ or Scots word ‘cleuch’. These are from a word meaning ‘ravine’ that usually occurs as ‘clough’ in other parts of northern England. We may take a look at this element in a future post.

Bend in the border. The part of the Liddel Water you can see in the foreground bottom right follows the Scotland-England border which then turns up the Kershopeburn which you can see entering the river here
The Kershopeburn centre joining the Liddel Water in Liddesdale, Scotland. The Kershope Burn and Liddel Water both form part of the England-Scotland border © David Simpson

View from the Top

Durham Cathedral western towers
The western towers of Durham Cathedral and the River Wear viewed from the cathedral’s central tower © David Simpson

Durham Cathedral’s stunning central tower reopened to the public during 2019 after extensive repairs. DAVID SIMPSON takes a trip to the top and enjoys splendid city views that include the Newcastle skyline and parts of Sunderland as well as the beautiful county and city of Durham.

It’s many years since we’ve climbed to the top of Durham Cathedral’s central tower. The tower re-opened to visitors earlier this year following extensive much-needed repairs, so a crisp autumnal Saturday afternoon in November seemed a perfect time to go and check it out.

Durham Cathedral steps
The spiral steps to the top of Durham Cathedral are relatively broad to begin with © David Simpson

During 2013, an inspection of Durham’s cathedral tower had highlighted the need for extensive conservation work. Fortunately, the cathedral was able to draw on funding from the newly established First World War Centenary Cathedral Repairs Fund which contributed significantly to the £1.9 million needed to carry out the repair work on this iconic North East landmark.

Inside the cathedral tower, Durham. The steps are quite narrow from here on © David Simpson

Scaffolding appeared around the central tower in late 2015 accompanied by bright white protective sheeting that locals referred to as the ‘bandage’. Such ‘tender loving care’ was a necessary if a little bit of a frustrating interlude for visitors and photographers wanting to capture the cathedral’s full beauty. Finally, however, the work was completed in May 2019 and the tower re-opened for the public to enjoy once more.

Chapel of the Nine Altars, Durham Cathedral
Chapel of the Nine Altars, Durham Cathedral © David Simpson

The cathedral’s central tower is 218 feet high (66.45m) and you need to negotiate 325 spiral steps to reach the top. So it’s probably not for the faint-hearted. Opening times can be found on the cathedral website and it costs £5 for the climb (£2.50 for children) with a number of advisory warnings on the website which we recommend reading. It’s worth knowing that the tower has the steepest and most narrow spiral of any cathedral in England and Wales.

Feeling fit and trying to shake off a bit of a discomforting cold from too many hours cooked up in a warm office, I walked into Durham from a village three miles to the east, paid my entrance fee and embarked on the cathedral climb. The spiral steps are quite broad at first, just to get you going and break you in gently. Then you reach a half way point, with a resting room and a long corridor that features displays relating to the cathedral and the tower’s restoration. At the far end of the corridor a sign dated 1783 directs us through another door where the spiral steps are significantly narrower.

Durham Castle from the cathedral tower
Durham Castle from the cathedral tower © David Simpson

It’s exhilarating when you reach the top and there was plenty of company yet still plenty of space. The view is simply sublime. Briefly, however, I must say I felt a slight touch of vertigo but quickly adjusted to the height. Durham looks rather like ‘Toy Town’ from up here, but a very picturesque Toy Town at that. Little cars and little people wander the neighbouring streets such as the Bailey and Owengate and Palace Green. Neighbouring South Street glimmered in the sunlight, with the water mill on the weir of the Wear far below. Here and there you could see preparatory activities for the forthcoming Lumiere festival.

The bailey, Durham from the cathedral tower.
The Bailey, Durham from the cathedral tower © David Simpson

There’s plenty of city landmarks to pick out – and not just Durham City landmarks. To the west we just about spotted the old miners’ hall in Redhills on the fringe of the beautiful woodland of Flass Vale. Here also we can see the city’s viaduct, Durham County Hall and the nearby hospital. A little closer to us we find Redhills Lane leading to the site of the Battle of Nevilles Cross of 1346. It’s known that some of the monks of Durham Cathedral monastery observed the battle from the vantage point of the cathedral’s tower all those centuries ago.

We observed the chapel of Durham School and the former Catholic seminary college at Ushaw. To the east and south east you can pick out Old Durham Farm and Old Durham Gardens near the site of an ancient Romano-British settlement and nearby the yet more ancient wooded hill fort site of Maiden Castle. To the south you see mostly hills, to Ferryhill and beyond.

Durham viaduct viewed from Durham Cathedral tower
Durham viaduct viewed from Durham Cathedral tower © David Simpson

The loop of the river surrounding the centre of the city demonstrates the importance of Durham’s defensive location. The historic streets, some dating back to medieval times are full of charm. There are long strings of Georgian and Victorian buildings that are brimming with character and various architectural styles forming a lacework along the hill sides. You can see an interesting contrast in style with the more modern buildings in Millburngate; the Prince Bishops Shopping Centre and the Durham University buildings around Mount Joy and Stockton Road.

Much can be seen beyond the centre of the city too. From the suburbs of Gilesgate and Newton Hall you can see out beyond to the neighbouring villages, all bordered by beautiful green patchwork fields and hedgerows broken by numerous russet coloured woodlands.

Newton Hall estate near Durham and Lumley Castle with the pormimemt office blocvk of Durham Tower at Washington on the horizon.
Newton Hall estate near Durham and Lumley Castle with the prominent office block of Durham Tower at Washington on the horizon © David Simpson

I must have been up there for at least a quarter of an hour, probably more and I kept seeing more and more new things. Lumley Castle can clearly be seen and of course Penshaw Monument. The Nissan car factory can be clearly made out and the prominent Department of Work and Pensions office block called Durham Tower near the Galleries in Washington is an imposing landmark. So we can look across from one Durham tower to another distant Durham Tower of a very different kind. Those last three mentioned landmarks are all of course in the city of Sunderland but beyond I could also make out cranes on the Tyne, somewhere in the South Tyneside or North Tyneside area.

View of Newcastle from Durham Cathedral tower
View of Newcastle from Durham Cathedral tower © David Simpson

In fact the view from up here is a tale of three cities as directly to the north the distant horizon is dominated by the most prominent buildings in the city of Newcastle. St James’ Park and the new Hadrian’s Tower development of course stand out but you can even make out the blue lantern tower of Newcastle Civic Centre. I’d definitely suggest taking a pair of small binoculars so you can make most of this splendid view.

Best of all though is the view of Durham City itself and it’s all well worth the £5 entry fee to the tower. Of course the descent is a lot less hard work than the ascent, though I did have a three mile walk home ahead of me as well. Ah well, it was worth it for the exhilarating view.

Durham Cathedral tower opening times and details here

 

North East Maps, Gifts and Clothes by Tangled Worm

TANGLED WORM  is the online shop and sister site for England’s North East and is one way we raise revenue for the upkeep of our well-established North East site.

The England’s North East site began life as a bit of a hobby back in the 1990s and has continued to develop exponentially since.

Established by historian and former Northern Echo writer, David Simpson, it now features hundreds of pages covering North East history, culture and life. Running a site on this scale takes time and effort so revenue from the Tangled Worm shop at tangledworm.com goes towards maintaining and updating the site, even if it’s just to raise a bit of petrol money to go out and about and take photographs around the region.

With a name inspired by the worm legend stories of Northern England, Tangled Worm began life in March 2018 with a focus on maps featuring the history and heritage of North East England.

Prints featuring maps of Rude and Peculiar North East Place-Names, Border Reiver surnames, Viking Northumbria and North East Collieries have proved quite popular.

The initial focus was on these heritage maps which build on David’s extensive research into North East history. In recent months the Tangled Worm business has expanded into clothes, accessories and gifts, mostly with North East themes.

These products, with designs unique to Tangled Worm include mugs, clothes, coasters, cushions, tote bags, necklaces, door mats and tea towels and we are constantly expanding our ranges and products.

Our ranges include products with themes such as Hadrian’s Wall, Bamburgh Castle, the Angel of the North, Geordie words, Newcastle upon Tyne, Durham and Wearside as well as some products featuring our very own Tangly, the Tangled Worm which forms our logo.

Our Hadrian’s Wall range features a map of the Roman wall and the main forts. The range includes mugs, coasters and place mats, a maxi wallet and a tote bag featuring the famous Sycamore Gap.

Clothes by Tangled Worm include hoodies and t-shirts, all available in a choice of four colours in various sizes. For example our Angel T-shirt is available in grey, white, green and light blue.

We also do socks featuring our very own Tangly. Our tote bags likewise include a choice of four colours for each product. There are bags for Mackem Lasses, Geordie Lasses and Durham Lasses and others featuring the Angel, Sanctuary Knocker and Bamburgh.

We are proud of our region and it’s great that sales from Tangled Worm can be used towards keeping the England’s North East site up and running.

Check out our Tangled Worm Shop at tangledworm.com and help support a North East site and business.