All posts by englandsne

Valleys of Hope

Here we take a hope-filled look at an example of toponymic nomenclature in the North East of England. That’s a very fancy and ‘make me sound clever’ way of describing a system of geographical names in a particular locality.

Hope-Valleys-Map-Place-Names-Northumberland-Durham-Scotland.jpg
Valleys termed ‘hopes’ in Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders © David Simpson, Tangled Worm (click to view larger).

One thing that often strikes me about topographical names in North East England is how distinct they are within England and how often they share features with lowland Scotland and particularly the Scottish Borders. There are several examples of identical or similar terminologies that transcend the border and hopefully we will look at some more of these in future posts. ‘Hopeful’ is a good word because it is always good to start with some hope and this post is certainly filled with ‘hopes’.

Harthope Burn near Wooler
Harthope Burn near Wooler. Photo © David Simpson

As an element of place-names in Britain, ‘hope’ comes from an Old English (Anglo-Saxon) term ‘Hop’ for a valley and is a term that survives predominantly in the uplands of Northumberland, County Durham and the border counties of Scotland. In Scotland they are especially prominent within the catchment area of the River Tweed and disappear gradually in Dumfriesshire. Further north where the Tweed meets the catchment of the River Clyde, the hopes disappear instantly. In Scotland ‘hopes’ seem to be associated with a region that formed part of Anglian Northumbria until the early eleventh century.

In these regions of hope (Northumberland, Durham and the Scottish Borders) ‘hope’ usually indicates a small ravine hosting a tributary ‘side valley’ which adjoins a larger dale or valley. The term ‘hope’ is also often applied to the grazing land within these side valleys and interestingly we may find hopes named Winterhope and Summerhope, presumably associated with movements of livestock.

Middleton-in-Teesdale showing Middleton Bridge across the Tees which dates from 1810
Middleton-in-Teesdale © David Simpson

The name of each Hope is usually assigned to the name of a stream that is almost always termed a ‘burn’ within the region. At the southern extremity of this region of hopes is Teesdale, at the edge of County Durham. Here we find Great Eggleshope; Little Eggleshope and Hudeshope near Middleton-in-Teesdale, that are exceptions to the ‘hope-burn’ rule, as these three valleys are formed by streams called ‘becks’ rather than burns. South of the River Tees into Yorkshire, where the Viking term ‘beck’ takes over from the Old English term ‘burn’, the word ‘hope’ disappears altogether as a term for a valley.

In addition to the simple map you see above we have created a more detailed Google Earth map highlighting valleys called ‘hopes’ in Britain with each of the hopes identified, labelled and precisely pinpointed. To explore this map visit the short link at ‘Hope as a term for valley’ (Google Earth map)

Screenshot Google Earth Map of 'hope valleys'
Screenshot of Google Earth Map showing valleys termed hopes

We extracted the data for this Google Earth map from the Gazetteer of British Place Names at gazetteer.org.uk and our map of hopes is based on this data. The Gazetteer of British Place Names data is a fantastic open source resource and is very extensive and detailed (with more than a quarter of a million entries) but is not perfect.

Killhope Weardale
The Killhope Burn, Weardale © David Simpson 2018

I have filtered the data to only include features including the term ‘hope’ that are specifically categorised in the data as ‘valleys’ and I note it has missed some valleys, including the beautiful valley of the Hedleyhope Burn just west of Durham City. Another missing hope valley is the famous hope Killhope Burn in Weardale. Killhope and Hedleyhope are listed in the data as places but not as valleys. Another interesting omission is Sweethope Lough in Northumberland as that is of course categorised as a lake.

Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery
Hedleyhope Burn valley near Cornsay Colliery © David Simpson

Interestingly, a small handful of outlying valleys identified in the data on this map are in Derbyshire and the Welsh border counties of England. There are four valleys listed  in these particular areas with ‘hope’ in their names, two of which are called Hope Valley and two are called Hope Dale. It is interesting that the additional clarification of ‘valley’ and ‘dale’ have been added to the word ‘Hope’ suggesting that the original meaning of ‘hope’ was long forgotten in these regions. Hope Bottom in Sussex is another extreme outlier on the map. Both ‘bottom’ and ‘hope’ in this name are believed to refer to the valley of the chalk stream here.

We should note that there are handfuls of place-names containing the element ‘hope’ as an artefact. A small number of examples can be found in the counties bordering Wales. They include the village of Fownhope in Herefordshire and nearby Woolhope but the term ‘hope’ has not generally survived in that region as a term for a valley.

Cassop Vale from Old Cassop
Cassop Vale viewed from Old Cassop. Photo © David Simpson 2016

Some places may contain the word ‘hope’ in disguise through modification of spelling. A good example of this is Old Cassop near Durham City named from the beautiful Cassop Vale, which means ‘valley of the wild cat’ where hope has been shortened to ‘op’. Other clipped forms of ‘hope’ occur in the names of Glossop in Derbyshire and Bacup in Lancashire

The village of Staindrop near Raby Castle in County Durham is also described by place-name experts as a hope (stoney-hope) from a modification of the word ‘hope’. Interestingly, Staindrop which is situated in a valley called Langleydale, has also sometimes been  historically interpreted as ‘Stainthorpe’. The present form ‘Staindrop’ has a remarkable similarity to several places in Denmark called Stenderup (stone village). In England, the Danish element ‘derup’ meaning farm or ‘village’ occurs as ‘thorpe’ in Viking settled areas and it is perhaps worth noting that Staindrop and Raby have a strong association with the famed eleventh century Danish king of England, Cnut, who owned the land there.

The prominent rocky hills of Great Standrop and Little Standrop in the Cheviots in Northumberland, incidentally have a very different origin to Staindrop in County Durham. Here Standrop literally refers to the ‘drop’ of the cliffs but we have strayed a little way from the subject of ‘hope’. Not far from the Standrop hills is Hedgehope Hill, the second highest hill in the Cheviot range after The Cheviot itself. Hedgehope is one of a number of hills that adopt the word hope from neighbouring valleys and the stunning Harthope Valley borders this hill.

As mentioned, only valleys containing the word ‘hope’ have been included on our Google Earth map. The map does not include the names of villages, towns, hills, woodlands, forests or other features that might include the word ‘hope’ although these features often derive from the term ‘hope’ meaning valley and are much more widespread in England, well beyond Northumberland and Durham.

Some of the ‘hope’ names on this Google Earth map may also include an additional term for a valley such as ‘Dean’ (or dene) which is usually a wooded valley we might also find hope used in conjunction with the Northumbrian word ‘cleugh’ or Scots word ‘cleuch’. These are from a word meaning ‘ravine’ that usually occurs as ‘clough’ in other parts of northern England. We may take a look at this element in a future post.

Bend in the border. The part of the Liddel Water you can see in the foreground bottom right follows the Scotland-England border which then turns up the Kershopeburn which you can see entering the river here
The Kershopeburn centre joining the Liddel Water in Liddesdale, Scotland. The Kershope Burn and Liddel Water both form part of the England-Scotland border © David Simpson

Newcastle upon Tyne : New Book

Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series
Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series

The first in a new series of books covering cities, towns, regions and rural areas of the coast and country has just been published by Tangled Worm.

Written by Dave Simpson, Newcastle upon Tyne is the first book in the Town and Country Series. It’s a handy guide to the history and townscape of Newcastle and features over three-hundred colour photographs along with numerous explanatory maps. Starting with early history in Roman and Anglo-Saxon times the guide explores the castle and later medieval town wall before taking a tour around the fabulous Quayside and beautiful bridges across the Tyne.

Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series
Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series

A street-by-street guide to the city centre follows, exploring buildings of interest and street-name origins that reveal hidden histories. Other sections briefly cover the Newcastle suburbs; firstly the western districts like Benwell with its surprising Roman remains as well as riverside areas such as Scotswood and Newburn. To the north and east the book follows the Ouse Burn ‘river’ and places along its valley like Gosforth, Jesmond, Heaton and Ouseburn.

Another section explores the origin of the term ‘Geordie’ for a native of Newcastle and shows how the meaning of the word has changed over time. The book then takes a quick look at some Geordie words and phrases and their possible roots.

A Newcastle ‘Timeline’ explores events in Newcastle’s history from 1066 to 2025. It features the rise of the medieval town and its coal trade and the early disputes with rival ports as well as the later Civil War and siege of Newcastle. Heading into the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, mention is made of the world’s first railways, the ‘Newcastle Roads’ and pioneering locomotives built above the banks of the Tyne. Continuing onward into innovative eras of later times, the timeline includes literal ‘light bulb’ moments that changed the world.

Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series
Newcastle upon Tyne book : The Town and Country Series

From a more modern era the book notes the city’s inventions, creations and cultural contributions, ranging from the foundation of Newcastle United FC to Lucozade; Newcastle Brown Ale; Greggs; Domestos; Viz; Byker Grove and Our Friends in the North.

More books in this series will follow covering cities, rivers and dales, towns, counties and coastal regions. Look out for a follow up book covering York expected later this year.

The Town and Country Series

Newcastle upon Tyne

Dave Simpson

ISBN 978-1-874617-06-8

188 printed pages and over 300 colour photographs plus maps.

Available through the Tangled Worm website

 

Newcastle : City of many layers

Newcastle upon Tyne

The layers of history in the city of Newcastle upon Tyne are really quite extraordinary. A Roman temple in a city suburb; the secret foundations of a Saxon church; a Norman castle; a medieval town wall; cherished churches and a fantastic friary. How about the fabulous fenestration of a seventeenth century quayside house or the Regency terraces and neo-classical streetscapes of Grainger Town. Not forgetting, of course, the bridges of steel that are masterpieces of Victorian; twentieth century and twenty-first century enterprise.

Tyne Bridges
Tyne Bridges © David Simpson

Ascending from the river front of the Quayside, where medieval merchants plied their trade exporting colossal quantities of coal we may head upward to the sweeping grandeur of beautiful Grey Street and its prominent monument to the Northumbrian Earl Grey. Then we find everything topped by the crowning space of sporting worship that is St James’ Park. It is hard not to be impressed by the visible story that Newcastle has to tell and much has been said about the dramatic eye-catching contrasts of townscape created by the multiple levels of the rising river bank so beloved of photographers.

The course of Hadrian’s Wall, once the very edge of the Roman Empire runs through the heart of ‘The Toon’ the modest Geordie term for ‘town’ that locals use to describe this remarkable place. The Roman wall follows Westgate Road out into the suburbs where suburban gardens at Benwell back out onto a temple dedicated to Antenociticus and the nearby crossing of an impressive Roman earthwork called ‘the vallum’.

Remnants of Roman Temple of Antenociticus at Benwell
Roman Temple of Antenociticus at Benwell, Newcastle © David Simpson

In the heart of Newcastle’s impressive old centre still stands the sturdy Norman keep of the great castle from which this city is named. It looms high above the Tyne as it has done for centuries, though sliced through and separated from its equally impressive and once integral neighbour, the Blackgate, by the determined sweeping curve of a Victorian railway linking the two sides of the Tyne.

Newcastle Castle including the Blackgate
Newcastle Castle including the Blackgate © David Simpson

The ‘new castle’ has for centuries been one of the city’s oldest buildings and stands on a site where the Roman fort of Pons Aelius had stood, protecting the bridge or ‘pons’ ordered, presumably, by the Emperor Hadrian, whose family name was Aelius.

Curiously enclosed within the old fort and subsequently enveloped by the later castle is the enigmatic foundation of an Anglo-Saxon church, seemingly the only major legacy from that great era of the Kingdom of Northumbria, a period of centuries in which Newcastle’s future role as a regional centre was strangely dormant. It was then a place seemingly known as ‘Monkchester’ its importance easily eclipsed by Jarrow, Corbridge, Hexham, Hartlepool, Wearmouth, York, Ripon and of course Lindisfarne.

Anglo-Saxon church at Newcastle
Anglo-Saxon church at Newcastle © David Simpson

Yet, this place on the Tyne would emerge in the succeeding millennium as the dominant town (and much later city) of our region. At first slowly emerging on the banks of the Tyne, under the protective gaze of its castle and the later town walls, Newcastle’s growth was built on the export of coal. Powerful burgesses asserted their power eastwards along the Tyne and into the neighbouring ports of the North East coast. At Trinity House off Broad Chare close to the Quayside we can see a legacy of this era.

Grey Street in the nineteenth century
Grey Street in the nineteenth century

Of a later era, are the ‘Grainger Town’ developments of which Grey Street is the culminating glory. The architecture of this period of prosperity is equally epitomised by the elegant beauty of the Central Station but there are perhaps slightly more modest buildings that conceal stories, events and associations with people whose innovative impact in some cases extended far beyond the Tyne.

Lit and Phil, Newcastle
Literary and Philosophical Society of Newcastle upon Tyne, Newcastle © David Simpson

This is no more so exemplified by the Literary and Philosophical Society in Westgate Road not far from the station where in one era or another Tyneside greats such as Richard Grainger; John Dobson; William Armstrong; Robert Stephenson; Joseph Swan; Charles Algernon Parsons; Thomas Bewick and Charles Earl Grey were members. The ‘Lit and Phil’ recalls an era of great confidence, innovation, belief and destiny that still evokes an enormous sense of pride in this city of many layers.

You can read more about the history of Newcastle in the following pages of the England’s North East site: